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Deck stair stringers are the structural bones of any outdoor staircase. A stringer is the diagonal board that runs from the deck platform down to the ground, creating the support system that holds the entire staircase together. Most deck stairs use either two or three stringers, depending on the width of the stairs and the weight they need to support. Understanding how stringers work is the first step toward planning a safe and functional staircase for your deck.
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Stringers are typically made from pressure-treated lumber, usually 2x10 or 2x12 boards, because they need to withstand constant weight and outdoor weather conditions. The wood is cut with notches or "treads" that form the steps where your feet actually land. The vertical distance between each step is called the "rise," and the horizontal depth of each step is called the "run." Building codes in most areas require rises between 7 and 8 inches and runs between 10 and 11 inches, though you should verify requirements with your local building department.
The number of stringers needed depends on stair width. For stairs up to 3 feet wide, two stringers are typically sufficient. For stairs between 3 and 4 feet wide, three stringers provide better support and reduce the chance of the steps sagging over time. Wider stairs may require even more stringers. Each stringer must be able to handle the load, which includes not only the weight of people using the stairs but also snow load in winter climates and the impact of footsteps.
Practical takeaway: Before starting any work, measure the vertical distance from your deck platform to the ground and count how many steps you'll need. Divide the total rise by the number of steps to determine individual rise height. This calculation determines stringer length and complexity.
Accurate measurements are the foundation of proper stringer installation. Begin by determining the total rise—the vertical distance from the top of your deck board to the finished ground level. Use a long level and measuring tape to find this measurement. Most people make the mistake of measuring only to the current ground level, but you should account for slope, drainage, and future settling. Measure at multiple points if the ground isn't level, and use the highest point as your measurement reference.
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Once you have the total rise, divide it by the ideal step height (usually 7.5 inches) to determine how many steps you need. For example, if your total rise is 45 inches, dividing by 7.5 gives you 6 steps. If the division doesn't result in a whole number, adjust your step height slightly. Having all steps the same height is critical for safety—uneven steps cause people to trip.
Next, calculate the total run by multiplying the number of steps by the depth of each tread (usually 10 inches). Using the example above with 6 steps at 10 inches each gives you a total run of 60 inches from the deck to the bottom of the stairs. This is the horizontal distance the staircase will take up on the ground. Measure from your deck to ensure you have adequate space and that the stairs won't interfere with landscaping, pathways, or other structures.
Modern calculators and measurement apps can help with these calculations, but pencil and paper work just as well. Document your measurements in writing before you begin cutting. Many installation mistakes occur because someone misremembered a number or lost track of calculations during the project. Taking photographs of your measurements also provides a reference point if you need to step away from the project and return to it later.
Practical takeaway: Use the formula: Total Rise ÷ Desired Step Height = Number of Steps. Then use: Number of Steps × Tread Depth = Total Run. Write these numbers down and double-check them before cutting any wood.
Choosing the right materials is essential for stringers that will last for many years. Pressure-treated lumber is the standard choice for outdoor stairs because it resists rot and insect damage. Look for lumber rated for ground contact, which has higher levels of preservative treatment. A 2x10 or 2x12 board is typical for stringers, with 2x12 providing extra strength and allowing more flexibility in stringer spacing.
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When selecting boards at the lumber yard, inspect them carefully. Look for straightness—place the board on a flat surface and sight down its length to check for warping. Avoid boards with large knots, checks (surface cracks), or existing damage. Pressure-treated wood is often slightly wet when sold, so you may want to let it sit for a few days to acclimate to your local humidity level, though this is not always necessary for stairs.
Beyond stringers, you'll need deck screws (3-inch exterior grade) or bolts to attach stringers to the deck frame, fasteners to attach treads (if using pre-made treads rather than cutting treads into the stringers), and hardware to secure the bottom of the stringers to concrete footings or pads. Metal stringer brackets and post bases help distribute weight and improve durability. You'll also need sandpaper (80-120 grit) for smoothing cut edges and a weather-resistant finish or sealant to protect the wood from moisture.
Calculate material quantities carefully. For two stringers, you need two pressure-treated boards. For three stringers, you need three boards. Add extra material to account for cutting mistakes or future repairs. Pressure-treated lumber typically costs between $40 and $80 per linear foot, depending on size and location, so a 10-foot 2x12 board might cost $400 to $800.
Practical takeaway: Purchase pressure-treated lumber rated for ground contact, inspect for straightness before buying, and lay materials flat in a dry location for a few days before use. Have all fasteners and hardware on hand before beginning installation.
Cutting stringers is where many DIY installers encounter challenges. The most common approach is to lay out the stringers using a framing square, which is a metal L-shaped tool marked with measurements. Position the framing square on the board so that the rise measurement (say, 7.5 inches) aligns with one edge of the board and the run measurement (say, 10 inches) aligns with the other edge. The corner of the square marks where you'll cut. Slide the square down the board, marking each step notch in succession.
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For a stringer with 6 steps, you'll mark 6 notches. The first notch starts at the top of the board where it will attach to the deck. The last notch may be partial, as the final step is often the deck itself or a landing platform. After marking all notches with a pencil, use a circular saw to cut the horizontal treads and vertical risers. Take your time with these cuts—they determine how safe and comfortable your stairs will be.
After making the main cuts, sand all cut edges with 80-grit sandpaper to remove splinters. Splinters are not just uncomfortable; they can catch clothing or cause injury. Pay special attention to the front edges of each tread, as these are where people's feet will contact the wood most frequently.
An alternative method uses a stringer cutting jig or template. Some people fabricate a plywood template matching their step dimensions, then use it to trace outlines on multiple stringers. This approach works well if you're cutting three or more identical stringers. Online videos and woodworking sites show how to build simple jigs from scrap plywood.
Some installers choose to buy pre-cut stringers from suppliers, which eliminates the cutting step but costs more money. Pre-cut stringers typically cost $150 to $400 per stringer, compared to $50 to $150 for the raw material. This option makes sense if you lack cutting tools or experience.
Practical takeaway: Use a framing square and pencil to mark all notches before cutting. Make all cuts with a saw, then sand all edges. If cutting seems too complex, purchase pre-cut stringers instead.
Proper attachment is critical for stair safety. The top of each stringer must connect securely to the deck frame or rim board. Most building codes require that stringers attach with bolts or lag
This guide is for general information only and is not medical, financial, legal, or other professional advice. For decisions specific to your situation, consult a qualified professional. See our Editorial Policy.