The easiest credit cards to get are those designed for people with no credit history or lower credit scores
The credit cards easiest to get fall into three categories: secured cards, student cards, and cards designed for people rebuilding credit. Secured cards require a cash deposit that becomes your credit limit, which removes the lender's risk. Student cards are issued to people enrolled in college or university, regardless of credit history. Cards marketed to people rebuilding credit have looser approval standards than traditional cards, though they often come with higher interest rates and annual fees.
The actual approval odds depend on your situation. If you have no credit history at all, a secured card or student card is your clearest path. If you have a credit score below 620, you are looking at secured cards or subprime cards (cards designed for lower scores). If you have been denied before, a secured card is almost always approvable because the deposit covers the bank's loss if you stop paying.
The catch: easier approval usually means higher costs. You may pay an annual fee of $25 to $100, an interest rate of 18% to 36%, or both. The trade-off is that these cards report to the three credit bureaus (Equifax, Experian, TransUnion), so responsible use actually builds your credit score over time.
Key Takeaways
- Secured cards require a cash deposit but are approvable even with no credit history or a low score, because the deposit is your credit limit.
- Student cards are issued to enrolled college students without a credit check, but you must be able to prove enrollment.
- Cards marketed for credit rebuilding have higher interest rates and fees but report to credit bureaus, so on-time payments build your score.
- Approval odds are highest with secured cards, followed by student cards, then subprime cards for people with damaged credit.
- The easiest card to get is not always the best card to use — compare annual fees, interest rates, and whether the card reports to credit bureaus before choosing.
How secured cards work and why they are the most approvable option
A secured credit card requires you to deposit money into a savings account held by the card issuer. That deposit becomes your credit limit. If you deposit $500, your credit limit is $500. You use the card like any other card, and the deposit stays in the account untouched — it is collateral, not a payment.
Because the bank holds your money, approval is nearly automatic. You do not need a credit history, a high income, or a good credit score. The bank's risk is zero: if you stop paying, they keep the deposit and close the account. This is why secured cards are the standard first step for people with no credit or very low scores.
After 6 to 18 months of on-time payments, many issuers will convert your secured card to a regular unsecured card and return your deposit. Some will not convert automatically — you have to ask. A few issuers, like Capital One, have a track record of converting accounts; others rarely do. Check the card's terms before you explore.
The cost varies. Some secured cards charge no annual fee (Discover Secured Card, for example). Others charge $25 to $50 per year. Interest rates typically run 18% to 24%. If you carry a balance, you pay interest on top of the annual fee, so the real cost adds up quickly. The goal is to pay your full balance each month so interest does not matter.
Student credit cards and who can actually get them
Student cards are issued by banks and credit card companies specifically to college and university students. They usually have no annual fee and lower interest rates than secured cards — often in the 15% to 21% range. Some offer cash back or rewards on certain purchases. The approval process is fast because the issuer is betting on your future earning potential, not your current credit history.
The requirement is straightforward: you must be enrolled as a full-time or part-time student at an accredited college or university. You will need to prove enrollment, usually by uploading a student ID or class schedule during the process. Some issuers ask for a parent or guardian to co-sign if you are under 21, which means they are legally responsible for the debt if you do not pay.
Common student cards include the Discover Student Card, the Capital One Journey Student Card, and the Chase Freedom Student Card. Each has different rewards structures and fee policies, so compare them before explore. The catch is that you lose the card's student status once you graduate or stop being enrolled, and the issuer may convert it to a regular card with different terms.
Student cards report to credit bureaus just like regular cards, so they build your credit history while you are in school. This is valuable: by the time you graduate, you may already have a credit score in the 650 to 700 range if you have paid on time.
Subprime cards for people with damaged credit or low scores
If your credit score is between 550 and 620, or if you have been denied for secured and student cards, subprime cards are designed for you. These are issued by banks and lenders who specialize in higher-risk borrowers. Approval standards are loose — you may be approved with a score as low as 500 — but the costs are steep.
Subprime cards typically charge annual fees of $75 to $150, interest rates of 24% to 36%, and sometimes additional fees for late payments or going over your limit. Some charge a "processing fee" just to open the account. The credit limit is usually low, often $300 to $500, which means the card is useful mainly for building credit, not for everyday spending.
Cards in this category include the Credit One Bank Visa, the OpenSky Secured Visa, and the Milestone Mastercard. Before you explore, read the fine print carefully. Some of these cards have terms that make them more expensive than others — a $95 annual fee plus a $25 processing fee is not uncommon. Compare at least two or three before choosing.
The upside is that subprime cards report to credit bureaus, so on-time payments do build your score. After 12 to 24 months of perfect payment history, you may be approved for a regular card with better terms, and you can close the subprime card.
What happens after you are approved: building credit instead of just getting a card
Getting approved is the first step. Using the card responsibly is what actually matters. The card issuer reports your payment history to Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion every month. If you pay on time, your score goes up. If you miss a payment or carry a high balance, your score goes down.
The most important rule: pay your full balance each month, or at least pay more than the minimum. Carrying a balance costs you money in interest and signals to lenders that you are struggling. Paying in full signals that you can manage debt responsibly. After 6 to 12 months of on-time, full payments, your credit score should improve by 50 to 100 points, depending on where you started.
Keep your credit utilization low — that is, do not spend close to your limit. If your limit is $500 and you spend $450, your utilization is 90%, which hurts your score. Aim to spend no more than 30% of your limit. This is easier with a higher limit, which is why some people start with a secured card, build credit for a year, then move to a regular card with a higher limit.
Do not explore for multiple cards at once. Each process creates a hard inquiry on your credit report, which temporarily lowers your score. Space applications out by at least three to six months. Once you have one card and have used it responsibly for six months, you will be approved for better cards more easily.
Comparing the three paths: secured, student, and subprime
| Card Type | Who It Is For | Approval Odds | Annual Fee | Interest Rate | Credit Limit |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Secured Card | No credit history or very low score | Nearly 100% | $0–$50 | 18%–24% | Your deposit amount |
| Student Card | Enrolled college or university student | Very high if enrolled | $0–$25 | 15%–21% | $500–$2,500 |
| Subprime Card | Score 550–620 or prior denials | High | $75–$150 | 24%–36% | $300–$500 |
The choice depends on your situation. If you are a student, a student card is the best option — lower fees, lower interest, and no deposit required. If you are not a student and have no credit history, a secured card with no annual fee (like Discover Secured) is your best bet. If you have a damaged credit history or a low score, compare subprime cards carefully and choose the one with the lowest total cost (annual fee plus interest on a typical balance).
One more consideration: some people use a secured card even if they could get a subprime card, because the interest rate is lower and the terms are clearer. A secured card at 20% interest is cheaper than a subprime card at 30%, even if the secured card has a small annual fee.
Common mistakes that make approval harder
explore for too many cards at once is the biggest mistake. Each process creates a hard inquiry, which lowers your score by a few points. Multiple inquiries in a short time signal to lenders that you are desperate for credit, which makes them less likely to approve you. Space applications out by at least three months.
Lying on the process is another mistake that people make. If you put down a higher income than you actually earn, or claim to be a student when you are not, the issuer may catch it during verification and deny you. Worse, they may approve you and then discover the lie later, which can result in the account being closed and reported to the credit bureaus as fraud.
Not reading the terms before explore is costly. Some secured cards have high annual fees or require a minimum deposit of $2,500. Some subprime cards charge processing fees or monthly maintenance fees on top of the annual fee. Spending 10 minutes reading the terms can save you $100 or more per year.
explore for a card you cannot afford to use is also common. If you have a $300 credit limit and you max it out when ready, you have a 100% utilization rate, which damages your credit score. The card is supposed to help you build credit, not trap you in debt. Only charge what you can pay back in full each month.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a job to get a credit card?
No. Secured cards do not require proof of income at all — the deposit is your collateral. Student cards require enrollment, not employment. Subprime cards may ask about income but often approve without verifying it. If you have no income, a secured card is your only realistic option.
What is the difference between a secured card and a debit card?
A debit card draws from money you already have in a bank account. A secured credit card requires a deposit but is a real credit card — it reports to credit bureaus and builds your credit history. Debit cards do not build credit. If your goal is to build credit, you need a credit card, not a debit card.
Can I get a credit card if I have been denied before?
Yes. If you were denied for a regular card, try a secured card — approval odds are much higher. If you were denied for a secured card, check the denial reason (the issuer must tell you). Common reasons are insufficient income, too many recent inquiries, or a very low credit score. Wait three to six months and try again, or try a different issuer.
How long does it take to build credit with an straightforward-to-get card?
Your score can improve within 30 to 60 days of on-time payments, though the bigger gains come after six months. After 12 months of perfect payment history, you should see a significant improvement — often 75 to 150 points, depending on where you started. At that point, you may be approved for better cards.
Should I get a secured card or a subprime card?
If you can afford the deposit, a secured card is usually cheaper — lower interest rates and often no annual fee. Subprime cards are for people who cannot afford a deposit or who have been denied for secured cards. Compare the total cost (annual fee plus interest on a typical balance) before deciding.