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How to Dispute a Charge on Your Chase Credit Card

How to dispute a charge on your Chase credit card

To dispute a charge on a Chase credit card, contact Chase within 60 days of the transaction and tell them the charge is wrong. Chase will investigate and either reverse the charge, ask you for more information, or tell you the charge is valid. You do not need to pay the disputed amount while the investigation is underway. The fastest way to start is by calling the number on the back of your card or logging into your Chase account online.

Chase has a formal process for this called a chargeback or dispute claim. The bank is required by federal law to respond within 30 days of receiving your claim, though the full investigation can take up to 90 days. During that time, the charge stays on your account but is marked as disputed, and you are not responsible for paying it.

Key Takeaways

  • You have 60 days from the transaction date to dispute a charge with Chase, and you must contact them within that window or lose the right to dispute.
  • Chase will ask you to describe what went wrong — whether the charge was unauthorized, the merchant never delivered, or the amount was wrong — and you should be specific about which one.
  • You do not have to pay the disputed charge while Chase investigates, and the investigation takes up to 90 days.
  • Chase may ask you to provide documents like receipts, emails from the merchant, or proof that you tried to resolve it with the merchant first.
  • If Chase rules against you, you can ask them to reconsider if you have new evidence, but their decision is usually final.

The three reasons Chase will accept a dispute

Chase recognizes three main categories of disputes: unauthorized charges, merchant error, and non-delivery or non-performance. Knowing which one applies to your situation matters because Chase will ask you to pick one when you file, and the evidence they ask for will depend on your answer.

Unauthorized charges mean someone used your card without your permission. This includes fraud, a stolen card, or a merchant charging you twice by mistake. If you did not authorize the charge at all, say so directly.

Merchant error covers charges that are wrong in amount, duplicate charges from the same merchant on the same day, or charges that went through after you cancelled an order. You should have a receipt or confirmation showing what you actually agreed to pay.

Non-delivery or non-performance means you paid for something the merchant never sent, or you paid for a service they never completed. This includes charges for subscriptions you cancelled but were still charged for. You will need to show that you made a good-faith effort to contact the merchant and resolve it before involving Chase.

How to file a dispute with Chase

You can start a dispute three ways: by phone, through your online account, or by mail. Phone is usually fastest because a representative can ask clarifying questions right away and tell you what documents to send next.

To dispute by phone, call the number on the back of your Chase credit card. Have your card number, the transaction date, the merchant name, and the amount ready. Tell the representative which of the three categories your dispute falls into, and describe what happened in as much detail as you can. They will open a case number and tell you what to do next.

To dispute online, log into your Chase account, go to the transaction, and select "Report as Disputed" or "Dispute This Transaction" — the exact wording varies by card type. You will be asked to choose a reason and write a brief explanation. Chase will send you a confirmation email with a case number.

To dispute by mail, write a letter to Chase that includes your name, card number, the transaction date, the merchant name, the amount, and a clear explanation of why the charge is wrong. Send it to the address on your statement or the back of your card marked for disputes. Mail is slower — Chase may take longer to receive and process it — so use this only if you cannot call or use your online account.

What Chase will ask you to prove

After you file, Chase will send you a letter or email asking for supporting documents. What they ask for depends on the type of dispute, but common requests include receipts, order confirmations, emails with the merchant, proof of cancellation, or bank statements showing the charge.

For unauthorized charges, Chase may ask you to confirm that you reported the fraud to them and to describe how the charge appeared on your account. They may also ask whether you recognize the merchant name or whether your card was lost or stolen around that time.

For merchant error, bring any receipt or confirmation showing the correct amount you agreed to pay, a screenshot of your order, or an email from the merchant confirming the price. If it was a duplicate charge, show both transactions side by side.

For non-delivery or non-performance, Chase will want to see proof that you contacted the merchant — an email, a chat transcript, or a phone call log — and that they did not respond or refused to help. If the merchant promised a refund but never sent it, include that correspondence. Chase also wants to know how long ago the charge was and whether you have given the merchant a reasonable amount of time to respond.

The timeline and what happens during the investigation

Chase must acknowledge your dispute within 30 days and tell you what they are doing. They will either ask for more information, begin their investigation, or tell you they need to contact the merchant. The full investigation can take up to 90 days from the date you filed.

During the investigation, the charge remains on your account but is marked as disputed. You are not required to pay it. If the charge is large or affects your credit limit, you can ask Chase to credit the amount back to your account temporarily while they investigate, though they are not required to do so.

Chase will contact the merchant and ask them to explain the charge. The merchant has a set amount of time to respond. If the merchant does not respond or cannot prove the charge was valid, Chase will reverse it. If the merchant provides evidence that the charge was correct, Chase will tell you their decision.

What happens if Chase rules against you

If Chase decides the charge was valid, they will send you a letter explaining why and tell you that you are responsible for paying it. At that point, the charge will be removed from the disputed status and will count as a regular charge on your account.

You can ask Chase to reconsider if you have new evidence — for example, if the merchant later admitted the charge was wrong, or if you find a document you did not have before. Send this new evidence to Chase in writing with your case number. However, Chase's decision is usually final, and they are not required to reopen the case.

If you disagree with Chase's decision and believe they made an error, you can file a complaint with the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau (CFPB) or your state's banking regulator. This does not overturn Chase's decision, but it creates a record and may prompt Chase to review their handling of your case.

How to avoid disputes in the first place

The easiest dispute to handle is the one you never have to file. Keep receipts for all transactions, especially large ones or purchases from unfamiliar merchants. Review your statement every month and look for charges you do not recognize right away — the sooner you spot a problem, the easier it is to resolve.

For subscriptions, set a calendar reminder to check your statement on the same day each month. Many subscription disputes happen because people forget they signed up and do not notice the recurring charge until months later. Cancelling early is much simpler than disputing.

If a merchant overcharges you or sends the wrong item, contact them directly first. Most will refund or correct the charge without involving your bank. Only file a dispute with Chase if the merchant does not respond or refuses to help after you have given them a reasonable amount of time — usually 5 to 10 business days.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if I miss the 60-day important date to dispute a charge?

Once 60 days have passed since the transaction date, Chase will not accept a dispute claim. You lose the right to use the chargeback process. Your only option at that point is to contact the merchant directly and ask for a refund, or to file a complaint with the CFPB if you believe the merchant engaged in fraud or deception.

Can I dispute a charge if I authorized it but changed my mind?

No. If you authorized the charge, Chase will not reverse it as a dispute. Buyer's remorse is not a valid reason. Your only option is to contact the merchant and ask for a refund or return. If the merchant refuses and you believe they violated their own return policy, you may have a case, but Chase will ask you to prove that first.

Will disputing a charge hurt my credit score?

Filing a dispute itself does not hurt your credit score. However, if Chase rules against you and the charge remains unpaid, it could eventually be reported as a delinquent account, which would damage your score. Paying the charge or working out a payment plan with Chase prevents this.

How long does it take to get my money back after Chase approves my dispute?

Chase typically credits the amount back to your account within 5 to 10 business days after they decide in your favor. If the charge was very recent, it may take longer because the transaction is still processing through the payment network. You will receive a letter confirming the credit and the date it was applied.

Can I dispute a charge if the merchant is out of business?

Yes. Chase can still investigate and reverse the charge even if the merchant has closed. You will need to explain that the merchant is no longer in operation and provide any evidence you have — a website that no longer exists, a notice from the merchant, or a news article about the closure. Chase will attempt to contact them anyway, and if they cannot, they will likely rule in your favor.

This guide is for general information only and is not medical, financial, legal, or other professional advice. For decisions specific to your situation, consult a qualified professional. See our Editorial Policy.