You can dispute a charge directly with your card issuer, and federal law requires them to investigate within 30 days
When you spot a charge you did not make or a charge for something you never received, you have the right to dispute it with your credit card company. The issuer — the bank or financial institution that issued your card — must investigate your claim and either reverse the charge or explain why it stands. This process is called a chargeback or a dispute, and it is governed by federal law, which means the rules are the same whether you use Visa, Mastercard, American Express, or Discover.
The key difference between disputing with your card issuer and disputing with the merchant (the store or company that charged you) is speed and leverage. Disputing with your issuer is faster and puts the burden on them to investigate. Disputing with the merchant first can work if the charge was an honest mistake, but if the merchant ignores you or refuses to help, your issuer is your next step.
Key Takeaways
- Contact your card issuer as soon as you notice the charge — most have a time limit of 60 days from when the charge appeared on your statement.
- You can dispute by phone, mail, or your online account, but written disputes create a paper trail and are harder for the issuer to ignore.
- Your issuer must remove the charge from your account while they investigate, though they may add it back if they find the merchant's evidence convincing.
- Gather evidence before you call: your statement, any emails or receipts from the merchant, proof you cancelled a subscription, or proof the item never arrived.
- If the merchant was a scammer or has gone out of business, your issuer is more likely to side with you; if it is a legitimate business, they will ask the merchant for their version.
The 60-day window and why it matters
Federal law gives you 60 days from the date the charge appears on your statement to report it to your card issuer. This is not 60 days from the date you were charged — it is 60 days from when it showed up in your billing cycle. If you miss this window, you lose the right to dispute through your issuer, though you can still try to contact the merchant directly.
The 60-day clock starts the moment your statement is available, not when you read it. Many people miss this important date because they do not check their statements regularly or because they assume they have longer. Set a reminder to review your statement within the first week of each billing cycle, especially if you use your card frequently or have recurring charges.
How to report the dispute to your card issuer
You have three ways to report a dispute: by phone, by mail, or through your online account. Phone is fastest, but written disputes (mail or through your account portal) create a record that the issuer cannot later claim they never received. If you call, follow up with a written dispute within a few days to lock in your claim.
When you contact your issuer, have your statement in front of you and be ready to describe the charge: the merchant name, the amount, the date it appeared, and why you are disputing it. Keep your explanation brief and factual — "I did not make this purchase" or "I returned this item but was never refunded" works better than a long story. The issuer will ask you to confirm your identity and may ask whether you authorized anyone else to use the card.
If you dispute through your online account, look for a "Report a Problem" or "Dispute a Transaction" link in your statement or transaction history. Fill out the form with the same information: the transaction, the reason, and any supporting details. Take a screenshot of the confirmation page so you have proof you filed the dispute.
What happens during the investigation
Once you report the dispute, your issuer must remove the charge from your account within two billing cycles (usually 30 to 60 days) while they investigate. This means you will not owe that amount, and it will not count against your credit limit. However, the issuer may add the charge back to your account if the merchant provides evidence that you authorized the purchase or that you received what you paid for.
During the investigation, the issuer contacts the merchant and asks them to provide proof: a signed receipt, a delivery confirmation, an email showing you authorized the charge, or a record that you used the service. If the merchant cannot provide proof, or if they do not respond within the timeframe, the issuer will rule in your favor and the charge stays removed. If the merchant provides strong evidence, the issuer may put the charge back on your account and close the dispute.
The issuer will notify you of the outcome in writing, usually within 30 days of receiving your dispute. If you disagree with their decision, you can submit additional evidence and ask them to reconsider, though this second round is less likely to succeed.
Types of charges you can dispute and what evidence helps
You can dispute any charge that falls into one of these categories: you did not make the purchase, you did not receive the item or service, the amount is wrong, the charge is a duplicate, or the merchant charged you after you cancelled a subscription or service.
For unauthorized charges (fraud or a stolen card number), you need only tell your issuer you did not make the purchase. For charges where you received something but it was not what you ordered or was damaged, you will need proof: a photo of the damaged item, an email from the merchant acknowledging the problem, or a tracking number showing the item was returned. For subscription cancellations, save the confirmation email showing you cancelled, or take a screenshot of the cancellation page with the date visible. For duplicate charges, your statement alone is usually enough, but a screenshot of both charges side by side helps.
When to dispute with the merchant first
If the charge looks like an honest mistake — a duplicate charge, a wrong amount, or a charge from a business you recognize — contact the merchant before you dispute with your issuer. Many mistakes are fixed in hours or days, and you avoid the formal dispute process entirely.
Send an email to the merchant's customer service address (not a general contact form) with your order number, the charge date, and a clear description of the problem. Keep the email professional and factual. If they respond and offer a refund, ask them to process it to your credit card and wait for it to appear on your statement before you file a dispute. If they do not respond within a week, or if they refuse to help, then contact your issuer.
Do not dispute with your issuer while you are still waiting for the merchant to respond, because the merchant may process a refund at the same time your issuer is investigating, which can create confusion. Give the merchant a reasonable window — usually five to seven business days — before you escalate to your issuer.
What happens if the merchant was a scammer or is out of business
If the merchant no longer exists, has a fake address, or is known to be a scam operation, your issuer is much more likely to rule in your favor without waiting for the merchant to respond. Scam merchants often do not respond to issuer inquiries anyway, which counts as evidence against them.
If you believe you were the victim of fraud, tell your issuer that when you file the dispute. Also consider reporting the scam to the Federal Trade Commission at reportfraud.ftc.gov, which helps law enforcement track patterns. This does not directly reverse your charge, but it creates a record that may help other victims and may lead to the scammer being shut down.
How disputes affect your credit and your account
Disputing a charge does not hurt your credit score. The charge is removed from your account while the investigation happens, so it does not count as a balance you owe. If the issuer rules against you and puts the charge back, that charge will then appear on your statement, but the dispute itself does not show up on your credit report.
However, if you file many disputes on the same card, your issuer may flag your account as high-risk and could close it or reduce your credit limit. This is rare, but it is a reason not to dispute charges frivolously. Stick to charges you genuinely did not make or did not receive.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if my card issuer sides with the merchant?
If the issuer decides the merchant's evidence is stronger than yours, they will put the charge back on your account and close the dispute. You can submit additional evidence and ask for reconsideration, but the outcome is unlikely to change. At that point, your options are to contact the merchant directly one more time or to accept the loss. Some card issuers allow you to escalate to a supervisor, so ask if that is possible.
Do I have to pay the disputed charge while the investigation is happening?
No. Once you report the dispute, your issuer must remove the charge from your account, and you do not owe it during the investigation. If the issuer later rules against you and puts the charge back, you will then owe it, but you will have time to pay it as part of your regular statement.
How long does a dispute actually take?
The law requires your issuer to investigate within 30 days and notify you of the outcome, but many take the full 60 days allowed. Some issuers resolve disputes in two weeks if the merchant does not respond quickly. Check your issuer's website or call to ask for an estimated timeline on your specific dispute.
Can I dispute a charge if I authorized it but changed my mind?
No. If you made the purchase yourself, you cannot dispute it just because you regret it or changed your mind. You can only dispute if you did not make the purchase, did not receive it, received something different, or were charged the wrong amount. If you want to return an item, contact the merchant about their return policy instead.
What if the merchant is in another country?
You can still dispute the charge with your issuer using the same process. International merchants are subject to the same chargeback rules, though the investigation may take longer because the issuer has to contact them across borders. The outcome is the same: if the merchant cannot prove you authorized the charge and received what you paid for, the charge is reversed.