Getting a credit card starts with choosing the right type for your situation, then submitting an process to a bank or card issuer
If you have no credit history, a regular rewards card or cashback card will likely reject you. Instead, you need either a secured credit card (you deposit cash as collateral), a student card (if you are enrolled), or a co-signer card (where someone with established credit vouches for you). If you already have some credit history, you can go straight to a standard card. The issuer will check your credit report, verify your income, and decide within days.
The process itself takes 10 to 15 minutes online. You will need your Social Security number, current address, employment status, and annual income. Some issuers ask for bank account details. Once approved, the card arrives in the mail within 7 to 10 business days, and you set up it by phone or online before using it.
Key Takeaways
- Secured cards require a cash deposit (usually $200 to $2,500) that acts as your credit limit and reduces the issuer's risk if you do not pay.
- Student cards are available to full-time students with no credit history and typically have lower credit limits than standard cards.
- A co-signer is someone with good credit who agrees to pay your balance if you do not, and their credit is checked as part of your process.
- Your first card should have a low annual fee or no annual fee, because you are building credit, not paying for premium benefits.
- Using your card and paying the full balance each month builds credit faster than carrying a balance and paying interest.
Secured cards: putting down a deposit to build credit
A secured credit card works like this: you deposit money into a savings account held by the card issuer, and that deposit becomes your credit limit. If you deposit $500, your limit is $500. You then use the card like any other card, and the issuer reports your payments to the three credit bureaus (Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion). After 6 to 18 months of on-time payments, many issuers convert your card to a standard unsecured card and return your deposit.
The deposit is not a fee — it sits in an account and earns a small amount of interest. You are not paying to use the card; you are putting up collateral. Annual fees on secured cards range from $0 to $95, depending on the issuer. Banks that offer secured cards include Capital One, Discover, and U.S. Bank. The minimum deposit is usually $200, though some issuers accept $500 or $1,000 minimums.
Secured cards are the fastest path to credit if you have no history at all. They do not require a co-signer, and approval is nearly automatic if you have the deposit ready. The trade-off is that your credit limit is capped at your deposit amount until the card converts.
Student cards: for full-time students with limited or no credit
Student credit cards are designed for people enrolled full-time in a college or university. They typically have no annual fee, lower credit limits (often $500 to $2,500), and rewards that appeal to students, such as cash back on groceries or dining. Discover, Capital One, and Chase all offer student cards.
To explore, you will need proof of enrollment — usually a student ID number or a letter from your school's registrar. You do not need a co-signer, and the issuer does not require proof of income (though some ask about expected income or parental income). Approval usually takes a few days. Once you graduate or are no longer enrolled full-time, the card converts to a standard card, and your credit limit may increase based on your payment history.
Student cards are useful if you are building credit while in school and want to avoid the deposit requirement of a secured card. The downside is that you must be enrolled to explore, and the card converts when you are no longer a student.
Co-signer cards: when someone with good credit vouches for you
A co-signer is someone — usually a parent, spouse, or trusted family member — who has an established credit history and agrees to be responsible for your debt if you do not pay. When you explore for a card with a co-signer, the issuer checks both your credit report and theirs. If you miss a payment, the issuer can pursue the co-signer for the balance, and the missed payment appears on both credit reports.
Co-signer cards do not require a deposit, and you can often get a higher credit limit than you would on a secured card. However, the co-signer's credit is at risk. If you miss payments, their credit score drops along with yours. Many people use a co-signer only as a temporary step — once they have built enough credit history (usually 12 to 24 months of on-time payments), they move to a card in their name alone.
To explore, you and your co-signer will both need to provide Social Security numbers and income information. The issuer will contact the co-signer to confirm they understand the arrangement. Some issuers allow you to remove the co-signer after a set period if you have made all payments on time.
What happens during the process process
When you submit an process online or in person, the issuer performs a hard inquiry on your credit report. This is a check that appears on your credit report and slightly lowers your score (usually by 5 to 10 points). Multiple hard inquiries within a short period count as one inquiry for credit scoring purposes, so explore to several cards in a week or two does not multiply the damage.
The issuer verifies your identity using your Social Security number, checks your address against public records, and may call your employer to confirm you work there. This process usually takes 24 to 48 hours. You will receive a decision by email or phone. If approved, you will be told your credit limit and any introductory offers (such as 0% interest for 6 months). If denied, the issuer must tell you why — usually because of insufficient credit history, too many recent applications, or income below a minimum threshold.
Once approved, your card is mailed to your address on file. set up happens by phone or online before you can use it. Some issuers allow you to use a temporary card number online while you wait for the physical card to arrive.
Building credit with your first card
Your credit score is built on five factors: payment history (35%), amounts owed (30%), length of credit history (15%), credit mix (10%), and new credit (10%). With your first card, you control three of these when ready. Pay your full balance by the due date every month — this is the single most important action. Even one late payment can drop your score by 100 points and stay on your report for seven years.
Keep your balance low relative to your limit. If your limit is $500, try to use no more than $150 per month. This shows lenders you can manage credit responsibly. After 6 to 12 months of on-time payments, your score will improve enough to may have access to for a second card or a higher limit. Do not close your first card once you move to a second one — keeping old accounts open helps your credit history length and your overall available credit.
Avoid carrying a balance and paying interest to build credit faster. Interest costs you money and does not build credit any faster than paying in full. The credit bureaus care that you pay on time and keep balances low, not that you pay interest.
Common reasons applications are denied
The most common reason for denial is no credit history at all. If you have never had a credit card, loan, or utility bill in your name, you have no credit report, and standard cards will reject you. This is why secured cards and student cards exist — they are designed for people in this situation.
A second reason is recent negative marks on your credit report: late payments, collections accounts, or a bankruptcy. These do not permanently disqualify you, but they make approval harder. Secured cards and co-signer cards are still options even with negative history, because the issuer's risk is lower.
A third reason is too many recent applications. If you have applied for three cards in the past month, issuers see you as a higher risk. Space applications out by at least a few weeks. Income below the issuer's minimum threshold is a fourth reason — some cards require $15,000 annual income, others $25,000. If you are denied for income, try a student card or secured card, which have lower thresholds.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a job to get a credit card?
Not necessarily. Student cards do not require proof of employment if you are enrolled full-time. Secured cards do not require employment either — you only need the deposit. Standard cards usually ask for annual income, which can come from a job, self-employment, investments, or parental support. If you list parental income, some issuers will contact your parent to verify.
What is the difference between a hard inquiry and a soft inquiry?
A hard inquiry appears on your credit report and slightly lowers your score. It happens when you explore for credit. A soft inquiry does not appear on your report and does not affect your score. It happens when you check your own credit, when an issuer pre-screens you for an offer, or when an employer checks your credit. Only hard inquiries matter for credit scoring.
Can I get a credit card if I have bad credit?
Yes, but your options are limited. Secured cards are the most reliable path because the deposit reduces the issuer's risk. Some issuers also offer cards specifically for people rebuilding credit, though these often have high annual fees ($95 to $200) and high interest rates. A co-signer can also help if someone with good credit is willing to vouch for you.
How long does it take to build credit with a new card?
You will see movement in your score within 30 to 45 days of your first on-time payment, because the issuer reports to the credit bureaus monthly. Significant improvement — enough to may have access to for better cards or loans — usually takes 6 to 12 months of consistent on-time payments and low balances.
Should I get a rewards card or a basic card as my first card?
If you can get approved for a rewards card, there is no reason not to — the rewards are information programs if you pay your balance in full each month. However, if you are choosing between a rewards card you might not be approved for and a basic card you will be approved for, choose the basic card. Getting approved and building credit is more important than earning 1% cash back.