Yes, you can dispute a charge, and the card issuer must investigate
You have the right to dispute a credit card charge you believe is wrong. Your card issuer — the bank or company that issued your card — is legally required to look into it. The process is called a chargeback, and it's one of the strongest protections you have as a cardholder.
The card issuer doesn't decide whether you're right based on your word alone. They contact the merchant (the business that charged you), ask for proof the charge was legitimate, and make a decision based on what both sides provide. If the merchant can't prove the charge was valid, you get the money back. If they can, the charge stands.
You don't need a lawyer, and you don't pay a fee to start the process. But you do need to act within a specific window — usually 60 days from when you first saw the charge on your statement — and you need to know what kind of dispute you're filing.
Key Takeaways
- You must report a disputed charge within 60 days of the date it appears on your statement; after that, the card issuer is not required to investigate.
- The card issuer will credit your account temporarily while they investigate, usually within two to three business days.
- Disputes fall into two categories: unauthorized charges (someone else used your card) and billing errors (the charge was authorized but wrong in amount, description, or posting date).
- The merchant has the chance to provide evidence the charge was legitimate, so gather your own evidence first — emails, receipts, messages with the business, proof you cancelled a service.
- If the investigation finds in your favor, the credit is permanent; if it finds against you, the charge goes back on your account and you'll owe it.
The two types of disputes and which one applies to you
An unauthorized charge is one you didn't make and didn't permit. Someone stole your card number, hacked your account, or used your physical card without permission. You're saying: "I didn't do this."
A billing error is a charge you authorized, but something about it is wrong. The amount is different from what you agreed to. The merchant charged you twice for one purchase. A subscription kept charging after you cancelled. The charge posted on the wrong date. You're saying: "I agreed to this, but not like this."
The reason this matters is that the card issuer handles them slightly differently. For unauthorized charges, you have stronger protections — your liability is capped at $50 under federal law, and many issuers waive that entirely if you report it quickly. For billing errors, the issuer still must investigate, but the burden is on you to show the error.
How to start a dispute with your card issuer
Contact your card issuer directly. Call the number on the back of your card or log into your online account. Most card issuers let you start a dispute through their website or app, but a phone call creates a record and lets you explain the situation to a person.
Have your statement ready. Tell the issuer the date of the charge, the merchant name, the amount, and why you're disputing it. Be specific: "I cancelled this subscription on March 15 and they charged me again on April 1" is better than "This charge is wrong." If it's an unauthorized charge, say so clearly.
The issuer will give you a dispute reference number. Write it down. They'll also tell you what happens next and how long the investigation will take — usually 30 to 90 days, though they must credit your account temporarily within two to three business days while they investigate.
Follow up in writing. After your call, send an email or letter to the card issuer with your dispute reference number, the charge details, and a brief explanation. This creates a paper trail. Some issuers have a specific dispute form or address for this; ask during your call.
What the card issuer does while investigating
The issuer contacts the merchant and asks them to prove the charge was legitimate. The merchant can provide a signed receipt, an order confirmation, proof of delivery, or evidence you used the service. For a subscription, they might show the terms you agreed to and the cancellation date you requested.
Meanwhile, your account is credited temporarily. If you disputed a $200 charge, that $200 goes back into your available balance while the investigation happens. You can use that money. But this is temporary — if the investigation finds against you, the $200 comes back out.
The issuer also looks at your account history. Have you disputed charges before? Do you have a pattern of disputing legitimate charges? This doesn't disqualify you, but it's part of what they consider.
Gather evidence before the merchant responds
The merchant will try to prove the charge was valid. You need to be ready with evidence that it wasn't. Start collecting now, before the investigation closes.
For an unauthorized charge: get a copy of your credit report from all three bureaus (Equifax, Experian, TransUnion) through annualcreditreport.com. Look for other fraudulent accounts opened in your name. File a report with the Federal Trade Commission at identitytheft.gov. This creates an official record that strengthens your dispute.
For a billing error: collect emails or messages with the merchant showing you cancelled a service, proof you returned an item, receipts showing a different amount than what was charged, or screenshots of the merchant's website showing the price you were quoted. If you have a written cancellation confirmation, that's gold.
If the merchant promised something they didn't deliver — you paid for expedited shipping and it arrived standard, or you paid for a service that never worked — document that too. Take screenshots. Save emails. Write down dates and what happened.
What happens when the investigation closes
The issuer will contact you with a decision, usually in writing. They'll explain whether they found in your favor or the merchant's favor.
If you win: the temporary credit becomes permanent. The charge is removed from your account. You owe nothing. The merchant may try to contact you, but you're not obligated to respond.
If you lose: the charge goes back on your account. You'll owe it again, plus any interest that accrued while it was temporarily credited. The issuer will explain why they sided with the merchant — usually because the merchant provided proof you authorized the charge or received the service.
If you disagree with the decision, you can ask the issuer to reconsider, but you'll need new evidence you didn't provide the first time. straightforward disagreeing with their conclusion isn't enough.
When a dispute won't work and what to try instead
A chargeback is powerful, but it's not the answer to every problem. If you authorized the charge and received what you paid for, a dispute will likely fail. The merchant will provide proof of the transaction, and the issuer will side with them.
If the problem is a quality issue — you bought something that broke, or a service was poor — that's usually a matter between you and the merchant, not a credit card dispute. Try contacting the merchant first to ask for a refund or replacement. Many will work with you to avoid a chargeback.
If the merchant is unresponsive or refuses to help, then a dispute becomes your leverage. But go through customer service first when you can.
For recurring charges you want to stop, contact the merchant directly and ask them to cancel. If they won't, you can dispute the next charge, but it's better to resolve it at the source. Some card issuers also let you block future charges from a specific merchant through your account settings.
How disputes affect your credit score
A dispute itself doesn't hurt your credit score. Disputing a charge is your right, and credit bureaus don't penalize you for using it. The dispute doesn't show up on your credit report.
What matters is the outcome. If you lose the dispute and the charge goes back on your account and you don't pay it, that unpaid balance can damage your score. If you win, there's no impact — the charge is gone.
If you dispute a charge and then the issuer reverses the temporary credit, make sure you pay what you owe to avoid a late payment. A late payment will hurt your score more than the original dispute ever could.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the important date for disputing a charge?
You have 60 days from the date the charge appears on your statement. Some card issuers give you longer, but 60 days is the legal minimum. After that, the issuer is not required to investigate. Mark your calendar when you get your statement.
Can I dispute a charge if I used my debit card instead of a credit card?
Yes, but debit card protections are weaker. You have 60 days to report an unauthorized charge, but your liability can be higher if you wait. For billing errors, you have 60 days as well. Contact your bank when ready if you spot a problem.
What if the merchant claims I signed for the charge or agreed to it?
If you genuinely didn't authorize it, say so in your dispute. The merchant will provide a signed receipt or email confirmation, and you'll say you didn't sign it or send that email. The issuer will decide who's credible. This is why evidence matters — if you have proof you were somewhere else, or that your account was compromised, provide it.
Can the merchant sue me if I dispute a charge?
Disputing a charge is not fraud. The merchant cannot sue you for using your legal right to dispute. However, if the investigation finds the charge was legitimate and you owe it, you're responsible for paying it. If you don't, the merchant could pursue collection, but that's separate from the dispute process.
How long does a dispute investigation actually take?
The issuer must complete the investigation within 30 to 90 days, depending on the type of dispute. Most finish within 30 to 45 days. You'll get a temporary credit within two to three business days, so you won't be without the money while they investigate.