You can get a credit card with poor credit, but you will pay more and have lower limits
A credit card with poor credit is possible. You will not may have access to for the standard cards that banks advertise on television. Instead, you will look at secured cards, store cards, or subprime cards designed for people rebuilding credit. Each type has different costs and rules. The real barrier is not your credit score alone — it is that lenders see you as higher risk, so they charge higher interest rates and require either a cash deposit or a co-signer.
The process itself is straightforward: you find a card that accepts your credit profile, gather documents, and submit an process online or in person. Most decisions come back within days. The harder part is choosing which card will actually help you rebuild credit rather than trap you in fees.
Key Takeaways
- Secured credit cards require a cash deposit (usually $200 to $2,500) that becomes your credit limit, and they report to all three credit bureaus to build your history.
- Subprime cards charge annual fees ($39 to $99) and interest rates above 20%, so carrying a balance costs significantly more than a standard card.
- Store cards from retailers like Target or Amazon are easier to get approved for but only work at that store and do not help you build general credit as quickly.
- You will need a Social Security number, proof of income or employment, and a valid ID; some lenders also ask for a recent bank statement.
- Approval typically takes three to seven business days, and your credit limit will be lower than someone with good credit would receive.
Secured cards: the most reliable path for rebuilding credit
A secured credit card works like this: you put down a cash deposit, usually between $200 and $2,500, and that deposit becomes your credit limit. You use the card like any other card — swipe it, pay the bill each month — but the bank holds your deposit as collateral. After 6 to 18 months of on-time payments, many issuers will convert your card to a standard unsecured card and return your deposit.
Secured cards report to all three credit bureaus (Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion), so every on-time payment builds your credit score. This is why they work: you are not just getting a card, you are creating a record that you can handle credit responsibly. Banks like Capital One, Discover, and U.S. Bank all offer secured cards. Credit unions often have their own versions and may charge lower fees.
The deposit is the main cost, but there are also annual fees ($0 to $95 depending on the issuer) and interest rates (usually 18% to 24%). If you pay your full balance each month, the interest rate does not matter. If you carry a balance, you will pay interest on top of your deposit sitting in the bank.
Subprime cards: higher cost, faster approval
A subprime card does not require a deposit. Instead, the card issuer takes on the risk directly and charges you for it through annual fees and high interest rates. Annual fees range from $39 to $99. Interest rates start around 20% and can go higher. Some subprime cards also charge monthly maintenance fees or fees just to check your balance online.
Subprime cards are easier to get approved for than secured cards because there is no deposit requirement and no credit union membership needed. You can explore online in minutes. But the cost structure makes them risky: if you carry a $500 balance at 25% interest with a $75 annual fee, you will pay roughly $200 in interest and fees over a year. That same $500 on a secured card at 20% interest with no annual fee costs about $100.
Subprime cards do report to the credit bureaus, so they do build your credit history. But the high fees mean you should only use them if a secured card is not an option — for example, if you do not have $200 to $500 for a deposit right now.
Store cards and retail credit lines
Retail cards from Target, Amazon, Walmart, or Best Buy are often easier to get approved for than bank cards, even with poor credit. The approval process is faster (sometimes when ready at checkout), and the credit limit is usually lower, which lenders see as lower risk. Some store cards have no annual fee.
The catch is that store cards only work at that store or its affiliated websites. A Target card does not help you build credit with Visa or Mastercard merchants. You are building credit history with that one retailer, not across the credit system. Store cards also tend to have higher interest rates than bank cards — often 20% to 25% — so carrying a balance is expensive.
Store cards are useful as a second card if you already have a secured card, or as a way to start building credit while you save for a secured card deposit. They should not be your only card.
What documents and information you will need
Most card issuers ask for the same basic information, whether you explore online or in a branch. Have these ready: your Social Security number, a valid government-issued ID (driver's license or passport), your current address, and proof of income. Proof of income can be a recent pay stub, a tax return, or a letter from your employer stating your salary. Some lenders ask for a recent bank statement to verify you have money to make payments.
If you are explore for a secured card, you will also need to be ready to fund the deposit when ready after approval. Most issuers let you transfer money from a bank account online, and the deposit usually clears within one to three business days.
If you have a co-signer (someone with better credit who agrees to pay if you do not), you will need their Social Security number and permission to pull their credit report. Co-signers are rare for credit cards but common for other types of credit.
How the process and approval process works
Most applications take place online. You fill out a form with your personal information, income, and employment history. The lender pulls your credit report and runs a background check. This is called a hard inquiry and it temporarily lowers your credit score by a few points. If you explore to multiple cards in a short time, each inquiry adds up.
Approval decisions usually come back within three to seven business days. Some lenders give you an when ready decision online. Others mail a letter or call you. If you are approved, the card ships within 7 to 10 business days. If you are denied, the lender must send you a written explanation that includes which credit bureau they used and your right to dispute the report.
If you are denied, do not explore again when ready. Wait at least 30 days. In the meantime, check your credit report for errors at annualcreditreport.com (the only free, official source). If you find mistakes, dispute them with the bureau. A corrected report might get you approved on a second process.
Building credit after you get the card
Getting the card is the first step. Building credit is the second. Here is what actually moves your score: paying your full balance on time, every month. Set up automatic payments from your bank account so you never miss a due date. Payment history is 35% of your credit score, so one late payment can set you back months.
Keep your balance low — ideally below 30% of your credit limit. If your limit is $500, try not to carry more than $150. This is called your credit utilization ratio, and it makes up 30% of your score. Lenders see high utilization as a sign you are struggling financially.
After 6 to 12 months of on-time payments, your score will start to improve. At that point, you may be offered a higher limit or conversion to an unsecured card. Do not close the card after you upgrade — closing it removes credit history and can lower your score.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will explore for a credit card hurt my credit score?
Yes, but only temporarily. Each process triggers a hard inquiry, which lowers your score by a few points. The impact fades after three to six months. Multiple applications in a short time do more damage, so space out your applications by at least 30 days if you are explore to more than one card.
Can I get a credit card without a Social Security number?
Most card issuers require a Social Security number to pull your credit report. Some credit unions and banks may accept an ITIN (Individual Taxpayer Identification Number) instead, but this is rare. Call the issuer before you explore to confirm what they accept.
What if I do not have proof of income?
Some lenders accept bank statements showing regular deposits as proof of income, even if you are self-employed or do not have a pay stub. Others accept a letter from your employer on company letterhead. If you have neither, secured cards are your best option because the deposit reduces the lender's risk.
How long does it take to rebuild my credit with a credit card?
You will see small improvements within three to six months of on-time payments. Larger improvements take 12 to 24 months. The exact timeline depends on how poor your credit is now and what caused the damage. Collections accounts and late payments stay on your report for seven years but have less impact as they age.
Should I get a secured card or a subprime card?
If you have $200 to $500 for a deposit, choose a secured card — the costs are lower and the credit-building power is the same. If you do not have that money right now, a subprime card is your option, but plan to switch to a secured card as soon as you can save the deposit.