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What an Unsecured Credit Card Is and How It Works

An unsecured credit card is a card issued without collateral backing it

An unsecured credit card is a card where the credit limit is not tied to money you deposit. The card issuer lends you money based on your credit history, income, and payment record — not on a savings account or other asset you pledge as security. This is the opposite of a secured card, where you deposit cash upfront and that deposit becomes your credit limit.

Most credit cards in circulation are unsecured. When you use an unsecured card, the issuer takes on the risk that you might not repay. In return, they charge interest on balances you carry and may charge annual fees. If you stop paying, they report it to credit bureaus and may pursue collection, but they cannot straightforward take the money from a deposit account the way a secured card issuer can.

Key Takeaways

  • Unsecured cards require no deposit and are approved based on your credit score, income, and payment history instead.
  • The issuer bears the risk of non-payment, which is why unsecured cards often carry higher interest rates than secured cards.
  • You build credit history with an unsecured card the same way you do with a secured card — by making on-time payments and keeping your balance low.
  • Most people move from a secured card to an unsecured card once their credit improves enough to meet the issuer's approval standards.

How unsecured cards differ from secured cards

A secured card requires you to open a savings account with the issuer and deposit money — typically $200 to $2,500. That deposit becomes your credit limit. The issuer holds the deposit as collateral, so they have almost no risk. If you miss payments, they can take the money from your deposit account. Because the risk is low, secured cards are easier to get approved for, even with poor or no credit history.

An unsecured card has no deposit requirement. The issuer decides whether to approve you based entirely on your creditworthiness. This means you need a credit score in a certain range — usually 580 or higher, though many issuers prefer 650 or higher — plus a steady income and a clean recent payment history. Because the issuer has more risk, unsecured cards typically charge higher interest rates than secured cards, and many charge annual fees.

The practical difference: with a secured card, you control the credit limit by choosing your deposit amount. With an unsecured card, the issuer sets your credit limit based on what they think you can handle.

Who gets approved for unsecured cards

Unsecured card issuers look at your credit score first. If your score is below 580, most mainstream issuers will decline you. If your score is between 580 and 650, you may find unsecured cards designed for people rebuilding credit, though they often come with annual fees of $25 to $95 and interest rates of 18% to 36%. If your score is 650 or higher, you have access to a wider range of unsecured cards with lower fees and rates.

Issuers also check your income and employment history. They want to see that you have money coming in regularly and that you have not recently defaulted on other debts. If you have a recent bankruptcy, foreclosure, or collection account, approval is harder but not impossible — some issuers specialize in lending to people with recent negative marks on their credit report.

Your credit history matters more than your current credit score. An issuer would rather see a score of 620 with five years of on-time payments than a score of 700 with a missed payment last month. If you have no credit history at all, you may need to start with a secured card and graduate to unsecured after six to twelve months of on-time payments.

Interest rates and fees on unsecured cards

Unsecured cards charge interest on any balance you carry from month to month. The interest rate — called the Annual Percentage Rate or APR — varies by issuer and by your creditworthiness. Cards for people with good credit (670+) typically charge 15% to 22% APR. Cards for people rebuilding credit charge 18% to 36% APR. A few issuers offer cards with no annual fee but higher APR; others charge an annual fee of $25 to $95 but offer a lower APR.

Many unsecured cards also charge fees for specific actions: a late payment fee (usually $25 to $40 if you miss the due date), a foreign transaction fee (1% to 3% if you use the card outside the United States), or a cash advance fee (3% to 5% if you withdraw cash using the card). Some cards charge an inactivity fee if you do not use the card for several months.

The total cost of an unsecured card depends on how you use it. If you pay your full balance every month, you pay no interest and only the annual fee (if any). If you carry a balance, interest charges add up quickly. A $1,000 balance at 24% APR costs $20 per month in interest alone.

Building credit with an unsecured card

An unsecured card reports your payment history to the three major credit bureaus — Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion — just as a secured card does. Every on-time payment you make improves your credit score. Every late payment damages it. The difference is that an unsecured card issuer has more power to punish you for missed payments: they can raise your interest rate, lower your credit limit, or close your account.

To build credit effectively with an unsecured card, keep your balance below 30% of your credit limit and pay at least the minimum payment on time every month. If your credit limit is $500, try to keep your balance below $150. If you can pay the full balance, even better — you will pay no interest and show the issuer that you are a reliable borrower.

Most people use an unsecured card for one to two years before their credit score improves enough to move to a card with better terms — lower APR, no annual fee, or higher credit limit. Some issuers will automatically increase your credit limit or lower your APR if you make on-time payments for six to twelve months.

When to move from a secured card to unsecured

You are ready to move from a secured card to an unsecured card when your credit score reaches 620 or higher and you have made at least six months of on-time payments on your secured card. Some people wait longer — twelve to eighteen months — to build a stronger track record and may have access to for better unsecured card offers.

Before you explore for an unsecured card, check your credit report for errors. You can get a free copy of your credit report from each bureau once per year at annualcreditreport.com. Dispute any errors you find, because they can lower your score and make approval harder. Once your report is clean, explore for an unsecured card that matches your credit profile. Do not explore for multiple cards at once — each process creates a hard inquiry on your credit report, and multiple inquiries in a short time can lower your score.

When you get approved for an unsecured card, you can close your secured card account. Before you do, make sure your secured deposit is returned to you — most issuers return it within one to two weeks. Keep the unsecured card open and use it regularly to keep building your credit history.

Unsecured cards versus other credit products

Unsecured cards are one way to build or rebuild credit, but they are not the only way. A credit-builder loan is another option: you borrow money from a bank or credit union, make monthly payments, and the lender reports your payments to credit bureaus. Credit-builder loans typically have lower interest rates than unsecured cards (6% to 12% versus 18% to 36%), but they require you to make fixed monthly payments rather than choosing your own payment amount.

Becoming an authorized user on someone else's credit card is a third option. If a family member or friend adds you to their card account, their payment history appears on your credit report. This can boost your score without requiring you to borrow money yourself. However, if the primary cardholder misses a payment, it damages your credit too.

For most people rebuilding credit, an unsecured card is the most flexible option because you control how much you borrow and when you pay it back. Just remember that flexibility comes with higher interest rates, so use the card strategically — borrow only what you can pay back within a month or two.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I get an unsecured card if I have no credit history?

It is difficult but possible. Most mainstream issuers require a credit score of at least 580, which means you need some credit history. If you have no history at all, start with a secured card for six to twelve months, then move to unsecured. Some issuers offer unsecured cards to people with no credit history if you have a steady income and a co-signer, though co-signed cards are rare.

What happens if I miss a payment on an unsecured card?

A missed payment is reported to credit bureaus and damages your credit score. The issuer may charge a late fee ($25 to $40), raise your interest rate, or close your account. If you miss payments for 180 days (six months), the issuer may write off the debt and sell it to a collection agency, which can pursue you for payment and further damage your credit.

Do unsecured cards have a credit limit?

Yes. The issuer sets your credit limit based on your credit score, income, and payment history. Limits for people rebuilding credit typically range from $300 to $1,000. As your credit improves and you make on-time payments, the issuer may increase your limit without you asking.

Can I use an unsecured card to pay off a secured card?

Yes, but it is usually not a good idea. If you transfer a balance from your secured card to an unsecured card, you may pay a balance transfer fee (3% to 5%) and a higher interest rate. Instead, pay off your secured card with cash or from your paycheck, then close the secured account and keep the unsecured card open.

How long does it take to build credit with an unsecured card?

You will see improvement within three to six months of on-time payments. Your score may rise 50 to 100 points in that time. Significant improvement — moving from fair credit (580–669) to good credit (670–739) — typically takes twelve to eighteen months of consistent on-time payments and low balances.

This guide is for general information only and is not medical, financial, legal, or other professional advice. For decisions specific to your situation, consult a qualified professional. See our Editorial Policy.