What "easiest to get" actually means
The easiest credit cards to get are those that don't require a high credit score or a long credit history. They typically have lower approval thresholds than standard cards — meaning the issuer is willing to take on more risk. This usually shows up in higher interest rates, annual fees, or lower credit limits. You're not getting a better deal; you're getting access when other issuers would say no.
The cards most likely to approve you fall into three categories: secured cards (backed by a cash deposit you control), store cards (issued by retailers, not banks), and cards designed specifically for people rebuilding credit. Each has a different approval process and different reasons to use it.
Key Takeaways
- Secured credit cards require a cash deposit but have the highest approval odds because the bank holds your money as collateral.
- Store cards from retailers like Target, Amazon, and Walmart approve people with lower scores than traditional banks do, though they only work at that retailer.
- Cards marketed for "credit building" or "bad credit" have higher interest rates and fees but are designed to accept applicants with limited or damaged credit history.
- Your approval odds improve if you have a bank account with the issuer, a steady income you can document, and no recent missed payments in the last 30 days.
Secured cards: highest approval odds, but you need cash upfront
A secured credit card works like this: you deposit money into a savings account held by the card issuer, and that deposit becomes your credit limit. If you put down $500, you get a $500 limit. The card issuer keeps your deposit as collateral, so they have almost no risk — which is why they approve nearly everyone who applies.
The catch is that you need the cash on hand. The deposit sits in the bank's account, not yours, so you can't spend it while you're using the card. You also pay interest on purchases just like any other card, plus often an annual fee ($25 to $95 depending on the issuer). After 6 to 18 months of on-time payments, many issuers convert your secured card to a regular unsecured card and return your deposit.
Common secured card issuers include Capital One, Discover, and U.S. Bank. Each has slightly different fee structures and deposit requirements, so comparing them before you explore matters. The goal of a secured card is not to use it forever — it's to build a payment history that lets you move to a regular card later.
Store cards: easier approval, limited use
Retail store cards (Target, Amazon, Walmart, Best Buy) have lower approval standards than bank-issued cards because they're betting you'll shop there. They don't require a deposit and often approve people with scores in the 550–650 range, where a traditional card issuer might decline you. Some store cards have no annual fee.
The tradeoff is that you can only use the card at that store or its affiliated locations. A Target card works at Target and Target.com, not at other retailers. This limits how useful the card is for building a general credit history, but it does show up on your credit report and counts toward your payment history.
Store cards also tend to have higher interest rates than bank cards (often 18% to 24%), so carrying a balance gets expensive fast. Use them to make a purchase you were already planning, pay it off quickly, and let the on-time payment history work for you.
Credit-builder cards: designed for your situation
Several card issuers market cards specifically to people with low scores or limited credit history. These include Petal, Self, and some offerings from Capital One and Discover. They typically have no annual fee or a low one ($0 to $39), but interest rates run 18% to 28% depending on your score and the issuer.
These cards approve based on factors beyond your credit score — some look at your income, bank account history, or whether you've had recent late payments. A few issuers use alternative data like utility payments or rent history if your credit file is thin. This makes them genuinely easier to get than a standard card, even if your score is very low.
The approval process is usually faster than a bank card (sometimes same-day), and the credit limit is often modest ($300 to $500 to start). Like any card, the goal is to use it responsibly and build a track record that lets you move to better terms later.
What actually improves your approval odds
Beyond the card type itself, a few concrete things move the needle on approval. Having a bank account with the issuer — especially a checking account with direct deposit — signals stability and makes approval more likely. Issuers can see your account history and know you're not a new customer with no footprint.
A steady income you can document matters, even if it's modest. You don't need to be high-earning; you need to show you have money coming in. If you're self-employed or have irregular income, having bank statements that show deposits over several months helps more than a single recent paycheck.
Avoiding recent missed payments is critical. A late payment from six months ago hurts less than one from last month. If you have a recent 30-day late or worse, your approval odds drop sharply across all card types except secured cards (which don't care because they hold your money).
When to use each type
Use a secured card if you have cash available and want the highest approval odds. This is the right choice if your credit is very damaged, you have no credit history at all, or you've been declined by other issuers. The deposit requirement is actually an advantage because it forces you to have skin in the game.
Use a store card if you already shop at that retailer regularly and want to build credit history without a deposit. This works well if you're comfortable with the higher interest rate and can pay off purchases quickly. It's not a replacement for a general-purpose card, but it's a useful addition.
Use a credit-builder card if you want a general-purpose card (usable anywhere that takes Visa or Mastercard) but don't have cash for a deposit or don't want to tie up money. These cards are designed for your exact situation and often have faster approval than traditional cards.
What happens after approval
Getting approved is the first step, not the finish line. The real work is using the card responsibly: making payments on time, keeping your balance low (ideally under 30% of your limit), and not explore for multiple cards at once. Each process creates a hard inquiry that temporarily lowers your score.
After 6 to 12 months of on-time payments, you'll see your score improve. At that point, you can explore for a better card with lower rates and higher limits. Many people use a secured card or credit-builder card as a stepping stone, then graduate to a standard card once their score recovers.
The card itself doesn't matter as much as the behavior. A $300 limit card used responsibly builds credit faster than a $5,000 limit card used carelessly. Focus on the payment history, not the card's prestige or features.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a credit score to get any of these cards?
No. Secured cards approve almost everyone with a deposit, regardless of score. Store cards and credit-builder cards often approve people with no credit history at all — they look at income, bank account history, or other factors instead. If you have no credit file, you may actually have an easier time than someone with a damaged score.
Will getting one of these cards hurt my credit score?
The process itself creates a hard inquiry that lowers your score by a few points temporarily. Once approved, opening the account also lowers your average account age. But these effects fade within months, and the on-time payment history you build will raise your score faster than it fell. The net effect is positive if you use the card responsibly.
Can I use a secured card and a store card at the same time?
Yes. Many people do this to build credit faster. A secured card gives you a general-purpose card, and a store card adds another account and payment history. Just don't explore for both on the same day — space applications out by at least a few weeks to minimize the impact of multiple hard inquiries.
What if I'm declined even for a secured card?
This is rare but possible if you have an active fraud case, a very recent bankruptcy, or other serious issues. If you're declined, ask the issuer why — they're required to tell you. You may need to wait a few months or address the specific issue before reapplying. A credit counselor or nonprofit credit agency can help you understand what's blocking you.
How long should I keep a secured card open?
Keep it open for at least 6 to 12 months, ideally until the issuer converts it to an unsecured card and returns your deposit. After that, you can close it or keep it open with a low balance to maintain your account history. Closing old accounts can hurt your score, so consider keeping it open even after you graduate to better cards.