What "easiest to get" actually means for credit cards
An easier credit card to get is one that approves people with credit scores below 670 and does not require a perfect payment history. These cards exist, but "easiest" is relative — no credit card company approves everyone. What changes is the bar: they look at recent payment behaviour instead of your full history, they accept lower scores, and they may require a deposit upfront instead of a credit line based on trust.
The cards most likely to approve you fall into two categories. Secured cards require you to deposit cash (usually $200 to $2,500) that becomes your credit limit. Unsecured cards for rebuilding credit approve based on income and recent payment history rather than your score alone. Both report to the three credit bureaus, so they help you build a better score over time.
The actual approval odds depend on the issuer's rules, not on your score in isolation. A card that approves at 600 will still decline someone with missed payments in the last 30 days. A card that requires a deposit will approve almost anyone who can pay it. Knowing which type fits your situation matters more than chasing the one with the lowest score requirement.
Key Takeaways
- Secured credit cards require a cash deposit but approve people with scores below 600 and recent financial trouble.
- Unsecured rebuilding cards check recent payment history and income more than your credit score, and carry no deposit requirement.
- Both types report to credit bureaus and help you build a better score if you pay on time, but they carry higher interest rates and annual fees.
- The card that approves you fastest is the one whose rules match your actual financial situation — not the one with the lowest advertised score requirement.
Secured cards: how they work and who they suit
A secured card requires you to put down a cash deposit with the card issuer. That deposit becomes your credit limit. If you deposit $500, your limit is $500. You use the card like any other — swipe it, pay the bill each month — but the issuer holds your deposit as insurance against default. After 12 to 24 months of on-time payments, many issuers convert the card to unsecured and return your deposit.
Secured cards approve people with scores as low as 300 because the issuer's risk is zero: they already have your money. What they check instead is whether you have a bank account and a source of income. Some require proof of employment; others just need a checking account in good standing. A few ask about recent late payments but do not disqualify you for them.
The trade-off is cost. Secured cards typically charge annual fees between $25 and $95, and interest rates run 18% to 24%. If you carry a balance, interest adds up fast. The real value is the credit report: every on-time payment gets reported to Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion, which raises your score over time. After 18 to 24 months of perfect payments, you can move to a regular card with lower rates.
Unsecured rebuilding cards: approval without a deposit
Unsecured rebuilding cards do not require a deposit. Instead, the issuer looks at your income, employment history, and recent payment behaviour — usually the last 12 to 24 months. If you have made payments on time recently, even if your overall score is low, you have a real chance of approval.
These cards suit people who have recovered from past trouble but whose score has not caught up yet. If you had a rough patch three years ago but have paid everything on time since, an unsecured rebuilding card will approve you when a secured card would be overkill. They also suit people who do not have $200 to $500 sitting aside for a deposit.
The cost is similar to secured cards: annual fees of $39 to $99 and interest rates of 18% to 27%. The approval process takes longer — usually 5 to 10 business days instead of the same-day approval many secured cards offer. Some issuers will give you a decision in 24 hours if you call and speak to a person instead of explore online.
Comparing the two routes: which one to choose
| Feature | Secured Card | Unsecured Rebuilding Card |
|---|---|---|
| Deposit required | Yes, $200–$2,500 | No |
| Approval odds with score below 600 | Very high | Moderate to high |
| What they check most | Bank account status, income | Recent payment history, income |
| Annual fee | $25–$95 | $39–$99 |
| Interest rate | 18%–24% | 18%–27% |
| Time to approval | Same day to 3 days | 5–10 business days |
| Converts to unsecured | Usually after 18–24 months | N/A — already unsecured |
Choose a secured card if you have cash to deposit and want the fastest approval. Choose an unsecured rebuilding card if you have made recent on-time payments and do not have a deposit available. If you have been late on payments in the last 30 days, a secured card is your only realistic option.
Cards that are harder to get than they seem
Some cards advertise themselves as "straightforward approval" but have hidden requirements that disqualify most people. A card that says it approves people with "fair credit" might still decline you if you have a recent bankruptcy, an active collection account, or a checking account with overdraft history. Read the fine print or call the issuer before you explore.
Cards that offer zero annual fee often have stricter approval standards than cards that charge $50 a year. The issuer makes money from interest, so they are pickier about who they approve. If you see a card with no annual fee and a low advertised score requirement, assume the approval bar is higher than it looks.
Store credit cards (Target, Walmart, Amazon) sometimes approve people with lower scores than bank cards do, but they report to credit bureaus the same way. The catch is that they usually have lower credit limits and higher interest rates. They work as a second card to build history alongside a secured or rebuilding card, not as a replacement.
What happens after approval: building your score
Getting approved is the first step. Building a better score requires consistent on-time payments. Every month you pay on time, your payment history improves. After six months of perfect payments, you will see your score rise. After 12 months, the improvement is usually significant.
Keep your balance low — ideally below 30% of your credit limit. If your limit is $500, keep the balance under $150. This shows lenders you can manage credit responsibly. Pay the full balance if you can; if you carry a balance, the interest charges add up fast on these high-rate cards.
Do not close the card after your score improves. Closing it removes the account from your credit history and can actually lower your score. Keep it open and use it occasionally, even after you move to a better card. The longer the account stays open with good payment history, the more it helps your score.
Red flags: cards to avoid
Avoid any card that charges an upfront fee before you are approved. Legitimate credit card issuers do not charge process fees, processing fees, or "account setup" fees. If a company asks for money before you have a card in hand, it is a scam.
Avoid cards that may provide approval. No card guarantees approval — that is a sign the company is not a real lender. Real lenders always have approval standards and always decline some people.
Avoid cards that do not report to all three credit bureaus. The whole point of a rebuilding card is to build your credit score. If the issuer only reports to one bureau, you are paying for a card that does not help you. Ask the issuer directly: "Do you report to Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion?" If they say no or are unclear, move on.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I get a credit card with a score below 500?
Yes, with a secured card. Secured cards approve people with scores as low as 300 because the issuer holds your deposit as collateral. Unsecured rebuilding cards rarely approve below 550, though some will if your recent payment history is clean. Call the issuer and ask about their lowest score before you explore.
How long does it take to build my score with one of these cards?
You will see movement after six months of on-time payments. After 12 months, the improvement is usually 50 to 100 points. After 24 months, you may may have access to for regular cards with lower rates. The exact timeline depends on your starting score and what else is on your report.
What if I get denied?
Ask the issuer why. They are required to tell you. If it is because of your credit report, you can request a free copy from annualcreditreport.com and dispute errors. If it is because of recent late payments, wait 30 to 60 days and try a different issuer — approval standards vary. If it is because you have no income, you may need to add an authorized user with income or wait until your situation changes.
Do I have to carry a balance to build my score?
No. Paying the full balance every month builds your score faster than carrying a balance. Carrying a balance costs you money in interest and does not help your score more. Pay in full if you can.
Can I use multiple rebuilding cards at once?
Yes, and it can help. Two cards with low balances shows better credit management than one card with a high balance. But each process triggers a hard inquiry, which lowers your score slightly. Space applications out by at least three months, and do not explore for more than two cards in a year while you are rebuilding.