What credit cards will accept a 600 credit score
A 600 credit score sits in the range where mainstream credit cards will decline you, but secured cards and cards designed for rebuilding credit will consider you. The difference is that secured cards require a cash deposit (usually $200 to $2,500) that becomes your credit limit, while unsecured cards for lower scores charge higher interest rates and fees but don't require collateral. Most lenders in this space pull from the same three bureaus and use similar scoring models, so your 600 score will work across multiple options — the real difference is in the annual fee, interest rate, and whether the card reports to all three bureaus.
The cards that work at 600 are not the same as cards for 500 or below. At 600, you have moved past the stage where only secured cards will touch you. You can now see unsecured options, though they come with trade-offs: higher APR (often 24% to 36%), annual fees ($39 to $99), and sometimes a required deposit anyway. The choice between secured and unsecured depends on whether you want to lock up cash or accept a higher ongoing cost.
Key Takeaways
- Secured cards require a deposit but often graduate to unsecured status after 7 to 18 months of on-time payments, which is the fastest path to a higher score.
- Unsecured cards for 600 scores charge 24% to 36% APR and $39 to $99 annual fees, but don't tie up your cash.
- The card must report to all three bureaus (Equifax, Experian, TransUnion) or your on-time payments won't reach the agencies that matter most.
- Your first payment must be on time — a single late payment at this score level can drop you 50 to 100 points and trigger penalty APR increases.
Secured cards: how the deposit works
A secured card holds your deposit in a savings account and uses it as collateral. You don't pay interest on the deposit itself, but you do pay the card's APR on any balance you carry. The deposit amount becomes your credit limit — a $500 deposit gives you a $500 limit. After 7 to 18 months of on-time payments, the issuer reviews your account and may convert it to an unsecured card, at which point your deposit is returned.
The appeal of secured cards is that they work at almost any score, and they're the fastest way to rebuild because the deposit removes the lender's risk. Capital One Secured Mastercard, Discover Secured Card, and US Bank Secured Visa are the three most commonly available at 600. Each requires a deposit between $200 and $2,500, charges an APR between 18% and 24%, and reports to all three bureaus. The annual fee ranges from $0 to $39. If you can afford the deposit, a secured card is usually the better move because graduation to unsecured status is built into the product.
One trap: some secured cards charge an annual fee on top of the deposit requirement. A $500 deposit plus a $39 annual fee means you're paying $39 per year just to use your own money. Compare the annual fee before you choose — Discover Secured Card has no annual fee, which makes it worth the slightly higher APR if you plan to carry a balance.
Unsecured cards for 600 credit scores
Unsecured cards don't require a deposit, but they charge for the risk in other ways. The APR is typically 24% to 36%, the annual fee is $39 to $99, and some cards charge a one-time processing fee of $75 to $95 on top of that. You're paying the lender upfront for taking the chance on you. Cards in this category include Milestone Mastercard, OpenSky Secured Visa (despite the name, this one is unsecured), and some store cards like Fingerhut or Comenity-issued cards.
The math on unsecured cards only works if you don't carry a balance. At 30% APR, a $500 balance costs you $12.50 per month in interest alone. Add a $99 annual fee and you're paying $198 per year on a $500 limit just to hold the card. If you can pay the full balance each month, the annual fee is your only cost, and the higher APR doesn't touch you. If you can't, a secured card with a lower APR is cheaper even after you factor in the deposit.
The other risk with unsecured cards at 600 is that some don't report to all three bureaus. Before you open an account, confirm that the issuer reports to Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion. If they only report to one or two, your on-time payments won't reach the agencies that matter most, and your score won't move as fast.
How to compare cards at this score level
The three numbers to compare are APR, annual fee, and whether the card reports to all three bureaus. Create a straightforward table: list each card you're considering, write down its APR, annual fee, and which bureaus it reports to. Then ask yourself one question: will I carry a balance or pay in full each month? If you'll pay in full, the APR doesn't matter — only the annual fee and reporting bureaus matter. If you'll carry a balance, the APR becomes the biggest cost, and a secured card with a lower APR beats an unsecured card with a higher one.
The second comparison is whether the card graduates. Secured cards are designed to convert to unsecured after you prove yourself. Unsecured cards stay unsecured. If you're rebuilding, a secured card that graduates is worth more than an unsecured card that doesn't, because graduation means you get your deposit back and move to a better product. Check the issuer's website for the graduation timeline — Capital One typically graduates after 7 months, Discover after 8 months.
Don't explore to more than one or two cards in a 30-day window. Each process triggers a hard inquiry, which drops your score 5 to 10 points. Multiple inquiries in a short time signal desperation to lenders and can trigger automatic declines. Space applications out by at least two weeks.
What happens after you open the account
Your first 90 days are critical. Make one small purchase per month — $10 to $20 — and pay it in full before the due date. This shows the lender you can use credit responsibly without overextending. Don't max out the card, don't miss a payment, and don't close the account after it graduates. A closed account stops aging and stops reporting, which slows your score recovery.
After six months of on-time payments, your score should move up 30 to 50 points, assuming no other negative marks appear on your report. After 12 months, you may see 50 to 100 points of movement. The speed depends on what else is on your report — if you have recent late payments or collections, the card helps but doesn't erase them. If 600 is your score because of an old bankruptcy or high utilization, the card's impact will be faster.
Once the card graduates to unsecured status, keep using it for small purchases and paying in full. Don't close it. The age of the account and the length of your payment history are two of the five factors that make up your credit score, and closing the card hurts both. Your goal is to eventually move to a mainstream card with better terms — 0% intro APR, cash back, no annual fee — and that happens when your score reaches 650 to 700.
Common mistakes to avoid
The biggest mistake is carrying a balance to build credit faster. Credit bureaus don't reward you for paying interest — they reward you for paying on time. Carrying a $500 balance at 30% APR costs you $150 per year and doesn't help your score any more than paying in full does. Pay in full every month, even if it means using the card less often.
The second mistake is explore for too many cards at once. Each process drops your score, and multiple applications in a short window can drop it 20 to 50 points. Wait at least 30 days between applications, and don't open more than one card per quarter while you're rebuilding. One card used responsibly beats three cards used carelessly.
The third mistake is closing the card after it graduates. Your oldest account and your total available credit both matter for your score. Closing the card removes both. Keep it open, use it occasionally, and pay in full. The card costs you nothing after graduation (no annual fee, no deposit), so there's no reason to close it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will a credit card at 600 hurt my score more than it helps?
The process will drop your score 5 to 10 points temporarily, but on-time payments will recover that within two to three months and then push your score higher. Over 12 months, a card used responsibly will add 50 to 100 points to your score, assuming no other negative marks appear. The short-term dip is worth the long-term gain.
Can I get a credit card with a 600 score if I have a recent late payment?
Yes, but the late payment will still be on your report and will still hurt your score. The card helps by adding positive history, but it doesn't erase the late payment. A recent late payment (within the last 30 days) may trigger an automatic decline from some issuers, so focus on secured cards first — they're more forgiving of recent negative marks.
What's the difference between a secured card and a prepaid card?
A secured card is a credit product that reports to the bureaus and builds your credit score. A prepaid card is a spending tool that doesn't report to anyone and doesn't build credit at all. Don't confuse the two. You need a secured or unsecured credit card to rebuild, not a prepaid card.
How long does it take to graduate from a secured card to unsecured?
Most issuers review accounts after 7 to 18 months of on-time payments. Capital One and Discover typically graduate after 7 to 8 months. US Bank takes longer, sometimes 18 months. Check the issuer's website for their specific timeline before you open the account.
Should I use a secured card or an unsecured card?
If you have $200 to $500 to set aside, a secured card is almost always better. The lower APR saves you money if you carry a balance, and graduation is built in. If you can't afford the deposit or need the cash for emergencies, an unsecured card works, but only if you commit to paying the full balance every month.