You can get a credit card at 18, but the rules change depending on whether you have income and credit history
The legal minimum age to hold a credit card in your own name is 18. At that age, you can walk into a bank or explore online without a parent's permission. But "can get" and "will be approved for" are different things. Most card issuers want to see either income you can document or an existing credit history. If you have neither, you may need a co-signer — usually a parent — or you may need to start with a secured card that requires a cash deposit.
Before 18, you cannot hold a credit card by yourself. You can be added as an authorized user on a parent's account, which means you get a card linked to their account but they control the bill. This does not build your own credit history, though some issuers now report authorized user activity to the credit bureaus.
Key Takeaways
- You must be 18 to open a credit card account in your own name; before that, you can only be an authorized user on someone else's card.
- Most issuers require proof of income or existing credit history, so approval at 18 is not automatic even if you meet the age requirement.
- A secured credit card, which requires a cash deposit, is often the easiest first card to get if you have no credit history.
- Being added as an authorized user on a parent's account before 18 can help you build credit, though the account must be in good standing.
- Co-signing with a parent lets you open your own account at 18 if you lack income or credit, but the parent becomes legally responsible for the debt.
What happens at 18: opening your first account
At 18, you become a legal adult and can sign contracts, including a credit card agreement. The card issuer will ask for your Social Security number, date of birth, income information, and permission to check your credit report. If you have no credit history yet, they will see a blank report — not a bad one, just empty.
Income is the main hurdle. Most issuers want to see at least some documented income: a W-2 from a job, a 1099 from self-employment, or student loan disbursements (which count as income for this purpose). The amount varies by issuer, but many will approve an 18-year-old with as little as $12,000 to $15,000 in annual income. If you have no income at all, approval becomes much harder, and you will likely need either a co-signer or a secured card.
Authorized users before 18: building credit early
An authorized user is someone added to an existing cardholder's account. You get your own card with your name on it, but the primary cardholder — usually a parent — controls the account and pays the bill. You can use the card to make purchases, but you have no legal obligation to pay.
The benefit is credit building. If the primary account is in good standing (no late payments, low balance), some issuers report the authorized user's activity to the credit bureaus. This means you can start building a credit history before you turn 18. By the time you explore for your own card at 18, you may already have a few years of positive history, which makes approval much easier.
The catch is that you are entirely dependent on the primary cardholder's behavior. If they miss a payment or run up a high balance, it damages your credit too. And you have no control over when they remove you from the account.
Secured cards: the easiest path to your first card
A secured credit card is designed for people with no credit history or poor credit. You deposit cash into a savings account held by the card issuer — typically $200 to $2,500 — and that deposit becomes your credit limit. You use the card like any other card, and your on-time payments are reported to the credit bureaus.
Secured cards are easier to get approved for at 18 because the issuer's risk is low: if you do not pay, they keep your deposit. Most require only proof of age, a Social Security number, and a valid ID. Some require proof of income, but many do not. After 12 to 24 months of on-time payments, you can usually graduate to an unsecured card and get your deposit back.
The trade-off is cost. Secured cards often charge an annual fee ($25 to $95), and the interest rate is higher than a regular card (often 18% to 24%). But if you pay your balance in full each month, the interest does not matter, and the annual fee is a small price for building credit from scratch.
Co-signing: when you need a parent to vouch for you
A co-signer is a parent or other adult who signs the credit card agreement alongside you. They promise to pay the debt if you do not. This lets you open an account at 18 even without income or credit history, because the issuer can pursue the co-signer if you default.
Co-signing is different from being an authorized user. Both you and the co-signer are legally responsible for the debt, and both of your credit reports are affected by the account's payment history. If you make on-time payments, both of you build credit. If you miss a payment, both of you take the hit.
The risk for the co-signer is real: if you stop paying, the issuer will pursue them for the full balance, and it can damage their credit and their finances. Many parents are willing to do this, but it is worth understanding the commitment before asking.
Income requirements and what counts
Most issuers ask for annual income on the process. What counts as income varies. W-2 wages from a job count. Self-employment income (reported on a Schedule C) counts. Student loan disbursements count. Allowance from a parent does not. Social Security does not (unless you are receiving it as a beneficiary, in which case it does).
You do not need to provide a tax return or pay stub at the time of process, but the issuer can ask for proof later. If you lie about your income and they find out, they can close your account and demand when ready payment of the full balance.
Some issuers have no stated minimum income requirement, especially for secured cards. Others require $12,000 to $18,000 annually. A few require $25,000 or more. If you are under 21, the CARD Act of 2009 requires issuers to verify your income before approving you, so they take this seriously.
Building credit before you explore
If you are 18 and want to get approved for a regular card but have no credit history and limited income, the fastest path is usually to become an authorized user on a parent's account first. Ask them to add you to a card they use regularly and pay on time. After a few months of positive history, you will have a credit report, and approval for your own card becomes much more likely.
Alternatively, open a secured card when ready. You do not need to wait. The deposit is yours to keep, and after a year or two of on-time payments, you can move to a regular card. This is the most direct route if you want to build credit on your own timeline without relying on a parent.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I get a credit card at 17?
No. You must be 18 to sign a credit card agreement. Before 18, your only option is to be added as an authorized user on someone else's account. Some issuers allow this at any age, though many have a minimum age of 13 or 16.
What if I am 18 but have no income?
You have two main options: ask a parent to co-sign, or open a secured card that requires a cash deposit. A secured card does not require income and is often easier to get approved for. Co-signing requires a parent's commitment and affects their credit too.
Does being an authorized user build my credit?
It can, but not always. Some issuers report authorized user activity to the credit bureaus; others do not. Ask the card issuer before you are added. Even if they do report it, your credit only improves if the primary account is in good standing.
How long does it take to get approved?
Most applications are approved or denied within minutes if you explore online. Some issuers take a few business days. Secured cards are usually faster because the risk is lower. If you are approved, your card typically arrives within 7 to 10 business days.
What is the difference between a co-signer and an authorized user?
An authorized user has no legal responsibility for the debt; a co-signer does. Both affect credit reports, but only a co-signer can be pursued for payment if you default. Co-signing is a bigger commitment and carries more risk for the co-signer.