What credit cards are available with a low credit score
If your credit score is below 620, most standard credit cards will reject your process. Banks see low scores as a sign you have missed payments or carried high balances in the past, so they either decline you or offer cards with higher interest rates and lower credit limits. The cards that do accept low-score applicants fall into three categories: secured cards (backed by a cash deposit you control), unsecured cards designed for rebuilding (no deposit, but higher fees and rates), and store cards (issued by retailers, often easier to obtain but usable only at that store).
Your score matters because it determines which of these routes will actually improve your credit over time. A secured card, for example, reports to all three credit bureaus and can raise your score by 50 to 100 points in six months if you pay on time. An unsecured rebuilding card does the same thing but costs more in annual fees. A store card helps only if you use it and pay the bill on time — it does not help you build credit outside that retailer's ecosystem.
Key Takeaways
- Secured cards require a cash deposit (usually $200 to $2,500) that becomes your credit limit, and they report to all three bureaus, making them the fastest way to rebuild a low score.
- Unsecured rebuilding cards charge annual fees of $25 to $99 and interest rates of 24% to 36%, but require no deposit and work if you cannot access the cash for a secured card right now.
- Store cards are easiest to obtain but only build credit at that one retailer and carry interest rates of 20% to 30%, so they work best as a second card after you have a secured or unsecured card.
- The fastest path to a higher score is putting a small purchase on your card each month, paying the full balance before the due date, and never using more than 10% of your limit.
- After six to twelve months of on-time payments, you can move to a standard card and either close or downgrade your rebuilding card.
How secured cards work and when to use one
A secured credit card works like this: you deposit money into a savings account held by the card issuer, and that deposit becomes your credit limit. If you deposit $500, your limit is $500. You then use the card like any other card — make purchases, receive a monthly bill, and pay it. The deposit sits untouched in the bank's account; you cannot spend it unless you close the card or the bank releases it after you have rebuilt your score.
Secured cards report to all three credit bureaus (Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion), so every on-time payment raises your score. Most people see a 50 to 100 point increase within six months if they pay the full balance each month. After twelve to eighteen months of perfect payment history, many issuers will convert your card to an unsecured card and return your deposit. Some require you to request the conversion; others do it automatically.
Use a secured card if you have access to the deposit amount and can afford to lock that money away for six to twelve months. The deposit is not a fee — it is your own money — but it does mean you cannot spend it elsewhere. Secured cards typically charge annual fees of $0 to $35 and interest rates of 18% to 24%. If you pay your full balance each month, the interest rate does not matter, but the annual fee does, so compare cards before you choose.
Unsecured rebuilding cards: higher cost, no deposit required
An unsecured rebuilding card works without a deposit. The issuer takes the risk that you will not pay, so they charge higher fees and interest rates to offset that risk. Annual fees range from $25 to $99, and interest rates typically fall between 24% and 36%. Some cards charge a processing fee on top of the annual fee.
These cards also report to all three bureaus, so they rebuild your score the same way a secured card does — through on-time payments. The difference is cost. If you carry a $500 balance on an unsecured card at 30% interest, you pay roughly $12.50 per month in interest alone. On a secured card at 20% interest, you pay roughly $8.33. Over a year, that is $50 more in interest. Add a $75 annual fee to the unsecured card and a $0 fee to the secured card, and the secured card saves you $125 in year one.
Use an unsecured rebuilding card only if you cannot access the deposit for a secured card right now. If you have the cash but are hesitant to lock it away, remember that the deposit is yours to reclaim — it is not gone. The unsecured card is the more expensive route, but it is the route when you have no other choice.
Store cards and retail credit: limited but easier to obtain
Store cards are issued by retailers like Target, Walmart, Amazon, or Best Buy. They are easier to obtain with a low score because the issuer only cares whether you shop there regularly — they do not pull your credit report as carefully as a bank does. Interest rates run 20% to 30%, and some charge annual fees, though many do not.
The catch is that a store card only builds credit at that one retailer. It reports to the bureaus, but it does not help you build a credit history that banks and other lenders see. If your goal is to move from a low score to a standard credit card, a store card alone will not get you there fast enough. However, a store card works well as a second card after you have a secured or unsecured rebuilding card. Using two cards responsibly — keeping both balances low and paying both on time — raises your score faster than one card alone.
Store cards also come with perks: discounts on your first purchase, cash back on store purchases, or promotional financing (0% interest for six months, for example). These perks can make the higher interest rate worth it if you shop at that store regularly and pay your balance in full each month.
How to use a rebuilding card to raise your score
The fastest way to raise your score is to use your card in a way that shows lenders you can handle credit responsibly. This means: put a small purchase on the card each month (a gas fill-up, a grocery trip, a subscription), pay the full balance before the due date, and never use more than 10% of your credit limit.
The reason is that credit bureaus track two things: payment history (35% of your score) and credit utilization (30% of your score). If you have a $500 limit and carry a $400 balance, your utilization is 80%, which hurts your score even if you pay on time. If you charge $50 and pay it off, your utilization is 10%, which helps your score. Over six months of on-time payments at low utilization, you can expect a 50 to 100 point increase.
Do not close the card after your score rises. Closing it lowers your score because it reduces your total available credit and shortens your credit history. Instead, keep the card open, use it for one small purchase per month, and pay it off. This costs you nothing (if the card has no annual fee) and keeps your score climbing.
Moving from a rebuilding card to a standard card
After six to twelve months of on-time payments, your score should be high enough to may have access to for a standard credit card with better terms. At that point, you have two choices: keep your rebuilding card open and add a standard card, or close the rebuilding card and move to the standard card alone.
The better choice is usually to keep both open. A second card with a higher limit and lower interest rate gives you more flexibility, and having two cards with low balances helps your credit utilization more than one card with a higher balance. However, if the rebuilding card charges an annual fee and you no longer need it, closing it makes sense — just do it after you have been approved for the standard card, not before.
When you explore for a standard card, be honest about your credit history. Many standard cards are designed for people who have rebuilt their score and are ready to move up. Lenders expect to see a secured or unsecured rebuilding card on your report; it shows you have been responsible. Your score matters more than your history at this point.
Common mistakes that slow down your score recovery
The most common mistake is carrying a balance to "build credit." This is backwards. Carrying a balance costs you money in interest and hurts your utilization ratio. Paying in full each month costs you nothing and helps your score faster. Credit bureaus do not reward you for paying interest; they reward you for paying on time.
The second mistake is explore for multiple cards at once. Each process triggers a hard inquiry, which lowers your score by a few points. If you explore for three cards in one month, your score drops 10 to 15 points temporarily. Space your applications out by at least three months so inquiries fall off your report and your score recovers between applications.
The third mistake is closing old accounts. If you have an old credit card with a zero balance, keep it open even if you do not use it. Closing it shortens your credit history and lowers your available credit, both of which hurt your score. The only time to close an account is when it charges an annual fee you no longer want to pay.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much will a credit card raise my score?
Most people see a 50 to 100 point increase within six months of opening a secured or unsecured card and paying on time. The exact increase depends on your starting score, how many other accounts you have, and whether you have any recent late payments or collections. A lower starting score often rises faster than a higher one.
Can I get a credit card with a 500 credit score?
Yes, but only a secured card or an unsecured rebuilding card. Standard cards typically require a score of 620 or higher. Store cards sometimes accept scores in the 550 to 600 range, but they do not help you build credit outside that retailer. A secured card is your fastest path to a higher score from 500.
What if I cannot pay the full balance each month?
Paying in full is the fastest way to rebuild, but if you cannot, pay as much as you can and at least the minimum. On-time payments matter more than the amount. However, carrying a balance costs you money in interest and slows your score recovery. If you can only afford the minimum, you may have taken on too much credit too soon.
Should I get a secured card or an unsecured rebuilding card?
Get a secured card if you have the deposit available. It is cheaper in the long run because the deposit is your own money, not a fee. Get an unsecured card only if you cannot access the deposit right now or if you need credit when ready and cannot wait to save the deposit amount.
How long does it take to move from a rebuilding card to a standard card?
Most people may have access to for a standard card after six to twelve months of on-time payments on a rebuilding card. Your score needs to reach roughly 620 to 650, depending on the card issuer. Some lenders move faster; others take longer. Check your score every few months to see when you are in range.