What credit cards will accept you with a low credit score
If your credit score is below 620, most standard credit cards will reject your process. But you have real options: secured credit cards, store cards, and credit-builder cards from banks and credit unions. These cards are designed for people rebuilding credit and report your payment history to the three major credit bureaus — Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion — so on-time payments actually improve your score over time.
The catch is that secured cards require a cash deposit (usually $200 to $2,500) that becomes your credit limit, and most charge an annual fee. Store cards often have higher interest rates and smaller limits. But both work: if you use them responsibly for 6 to 12 months, your score typically rises enough to move to a standard card with better terms.
The card you choose depends on whether you want to rebuild quickly, keep costs low, or get approved with the least friction. Each type has a different trade-off.
Key Takeaways
- Secured credit cards require a cash deposit but report to all three credit bureaus, making them the fastest way to rebuild if you pay on time.
- Store cards and gas cards are easier to get approved for with low credit, but charge higher interest rates and have smaller credit limits.
- Credit-builder cards from credit unions and online banks often have lower fees than secured cards and may not require a deposit.
- Your payment history matters far more than the card itself — missing even one payment will hurt your score and undo months of progress.
- After 6 to 12 months of on-time payments, you can request a credit limit increase or move to a standard card with better terms.
Secured credit cards: the most direct path to a higher score
A secured card works like this: you deposit money into a savings account held by the card issuer, and that amount becomes your credit limit. You then use the card like any other — buy something, pay the bill monthly — and the issuer reports your payment to Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion. After 12 to 24 months of on-time payments, many issuers convert the card to an unsecured card and return your deposit.
The deposit is not a fee; it is your own money sitting in an account. But you will pay an annual fee, usually $25 to $95, and often a higher interest rate than a standard card — typically 18% to 24%. If you carry a balance, interest adds up fast. The real value is the credit reporting: every on-time payment is proof to future lenders that you can manage debt.
Common secured card issuers include Capital One Secured Mastercard, Discover Secured Card, and U.S. Bank Secured Visa. Each has different deposit minimums and fee structures, so compare before you explore. explore for only one at a time — multiple applications in a short period lower your score temporarily.
Store cards and gas cards: easier approval, higher costs
Retail stores and gas stations issue their own credit cards with looser approval standards. Target, Walmart, Amazon, Shell, and Chevron all have cards that accept people with low credit scores. These cards are easier to get approved for because the issuer makes money from your purchases at their store, not just from interest.
The downside: store cards usually have interest rates of 20% to 29%, much higher than secured cards. Your credit limit is often small — $300 to $500 — and the card may not report to all three bureaus, which slows your score improvement. Some report only to one or two bureaus, so the payment history does not help as much.
Store cards work best as a second card, not your first one. Get a secured card to build history, then add a store card for a specific retailer you use regularly. This spreads your credit use across multiple accounts, which helps your score. But do not open multiple store cards at once.
Credit-builder cards from credit unions and online banks
Some credit unions and online banks offer credit-builder cards that do not require a deposit. Instead, you make a small monthly payment — usually $25 to $50 — and the issuer reports it to the credit bureaus. After 12 months, you have a payment history and a small credit limit you can use like a normal card.
These cards often have lower annual fees than secured cards, sometimes no fee at all. The catch is that your credit limit starts very small, and you cannot use the card until you have made several on-time payments. They are slower to build credit than secured cards, but cheaper if you have the discipline to make small monthly payments.
Credit unions in your area may offer these cards to members. If you are not a member, you can often join by opening a savings account with a small deposit — $5 to $25. Online banks like Self and LendingClub also offer credit-builder products, though they work slightly differently: you borrow money from yourself and pay it back to build credit.
How to choose between these options
Start with a secured card if you want the fastest score improvement and can afford the deposit. The deposit is your money, and you get it back. The annual fee stings, but the credit reporting is reliable and fast.
Choose a store card if you already shop at a specific retailer regularly and want to avoid a deposit. You will pay higher interest, but you can start using the card when ready. Treat it as a second card, not your primary one.
Go with a credit-builder card if you are a credit union member or want to avoid a large deposit. These cards cost less but move more slowly. They work best if you can commit to small monthly payments for a full year.
Do not explore for multiple cards in the same month. Each process creates a hard inquiry on your credit report, which lowers your score by a few points. Space applications out by at least three months so your score has time to recover.
What to do after you get approved
Once you have a card, use it for small, regular purchases — a gas fill-up, a grocery trip, a streaming subscription. Keep your balance below 30% of your credit limit. Pay the full balance every month, on time, without exception. Even one late payment will erase months of progress.
Set up automatic payments if your bank allows it. This removes the risk of forgetting a due date. If you cannot pay the full balance, pay as much as you can — at least the minimum — but understand that interest will compound and your score will not improve as fast.
After 6 to 12 months of on-time payments, contact the card issuer and ask for a credit limit increase. Many will grant one without a hard inquiry, which means your score does not take another hit. A higher limit makes it easier to keep your balance below 30%, which helps your score climb faster.
When to move to a standard credit card
After 12 to 24 months of on-time payments, your credit score should be high enough — typically 650 or above — to move to a standard card with better terms. At that point, you can explore for cards with lower interest rates, no annual fee, and rewards like cash back or travel points.
When you move, do not close the old card. Closing it removes available credit from your account and can lower your score. Instead, keep it open and use it occasionally — one small purchase every few months — to keep the account active. The longer your credit history, the higher your score.
If the old card has an annual fee, call the issuer and ask if they will waive it or convert the card to a no-fee version. Many will, especially if you have been a good customer. If they refuse, you can close it after your score is stable enough that the impact does not matter.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will getting a low-credit card hurt my score even more?
The process itself will lower your score by a few points for a few months. But if you use the card responsibly, your score will climb back up and then go higher than it was before. The temporary dip is worth it because the payment history you build is much more valuable than the small damage from the inquiry.
What if I cannot afford the deposit for a secured card?
Start with a store card or credit-builder card instead. Both have lower or no deposit requirements. Once you have made six months of on-time payments on a store card, your score will improve enough to move to a secured card with a smaller deposit, or to skip the secured card altogether.
Can I use my credit card to pay bills and build credit faster?
Yes, but only if the bill issuer accepts credit card payments. Utility companies, phone companies, and insurance companies usually do accept them. However, some charge a fee for credit card payments, which erases the benefit. Check before you pay this way.
What happens if I miss a payment?
A single missed payment will lower your score by 100 points or more and stay on your credit report for seven years. It also triggers late fees and higher interest rates. If you miss a payment, contact the card issuer when ready and ask about a hardship program or late fee waiver. Some issuers will work with you if you explain the situation.
Should I carry a balance to build credit faster?
No. Carrying a balance does not build credit faster; it just costs you money in interest. Your payment history is what matters, and on-time payments build credit whether you carry a balance or pay in full. Always pay in full if you can.